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Alaska adventures!
25 August 2019 10:50You can follow along on the map at https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eRgCqLpF7UGqH3yedTDJa7hO8mnaaRM3&usp=sharing
And my photos can be found at https://photos.app.goo.gl/B5rw96sKR9Rp89L6A (and many more taken by Maria who got way better photos are also posted to my FB page)
I'm sure I've already forgotten things, but here we go.
Day 0
Sam and I have packed all the things and take off from Dulles to begin our adventures. Last minute flight change has stopping in Charlotte rather than Dallas, and then on to Seattle and continuing on to Anchorage. Other than having to fly through some storms over the Rockies the flights go smoothly, though I don't get much in the way of sleep.
Day 1
We arrive around 4 am, which apparently is normal for Anchorage because the airport is busy and the Starbucks is open, which is good because we need breakfast and have about an hour to kill. Once fortified we go straight to the train station and join up with our traveling companions and soon it is time to board the Alaska Railroad on our way to Seward. We are immediately greeted by stunning scenery, every bit as amazing as advertised. One of the striking things about Alaska that we encountered repeatedly is how much it messes with your sense of scale. I mean it's a running joke that everything is bigger in Alaska, but it's true, that whatever it is that looks about a mile away? Is more like 10, at least. Anyway, we sprang for the goldstar service which was totally worth it, means we get a much needed and very tasty 2nd breakfast on the train. Also puts you in an observation car that's all windows, plus open air photo platforms at the ends of the car, plus free drinks! I tried to stay awake for the whole trip but nodded off for a bit of it towards the end.
It's still morning when we get to Seward and we have awhile before we can check in to our rental, we had arranged for a bag service to hold our stuff and wandered the town for a bit, spending some of the afternoon at the Alaska Sealife Center where we get some guaranteed critter viewing including puffins, otters, seals, sea lions, and many fishies. Highlight for me was the puffins since you got to be in the same room as them. In with the photos there is some video of the puffins and one otter that was a rescue. Hit up a local pub for linner and finally on to our rental house. As soon as I can get my luggage to my room I crash.
Day 2
No rest for us, up and out early for a day cruise to Kenai Fjords National Park. I had some trepidation about this trip since I get seasick easily and this was a smaller boat going out in unprotected waters, but need not have worried since the ocean was like glass today. The cruise proves to be a wildlife bonanza, setting a very high bar for the rest of the trip. We get one very photogenic otter before even really getting out of the harbor. The ship runs out to the Holgate glacier and back and on the way we see whales, puffins, sea lions, bears, and orcas. Ship was able to parallel the orcas for awhile giving some great views. The glacier itself was spectacular as well, complete with some calving action.
Day 3
Finally get a bit of a rest day. We do stop in the little museum next door which has some stuff on the 1964 earthquake. We walk back to the harbor area for some shopping and food. Sam and her Mom score unexpected spots on a dog sledding tour, I volunteer to take her Mom's scooter back to the rental and have some down time. In a little creek between the harbor and our rental get my first view of wild salmon doing their thing, which is pretty cool to watch.
Day 4
Embarkation day, but our ship leaves from Whittier, not Seward, so we have a long bus ride first. We work in a stop at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center on the way for more guaranteed critter viewing. Cool especially to see critters from the interior of Alaska that won't be likely on the cruise, including moose, caribou, bison, and musk ox. Also more bears! After critters and a long, single lane tunnel we finally reach Whittier and our ship, the Coral Princess. Embarkation goes smoothly and most of the rest of the day is just wandering the ship figuring out where things are. This evening is also sailing one of the big stretches of unprotected waters, but the beautiful weather and calm seas hold.
Overall I was pretty happy with the ship. Compared to other ships it seemed to have lots of public areas, including lots of open deck space for viewing so it almost never felt crowded, I think the only time we ran into lines was sometimes at dinner time when we were doing the scheduled dining. Food was consistently decent. We didn't always take advantage of it, but what we saw of it, the entertainment was better than expected.
Day 5
The first of two glacier viewing days, much of which I spend out on the deck gawking. Today's is Hubbard Glacier, which is huge, and we get quite a bit closer than I thought we would, our closest approach probably around here. I learned afterward that this particular ships captain has a reputation for getting as close to the glaciers as possible.
Day 6
Is more glacier gawking, now in Glacier Bay National Park. The day starts out very foggy, but it clears up by the time we get to the glaciers. The ship takes on a handful of park rangers for the day who give lectures and provide some narration to what we're viewing. There are many glaciers to be seen, the most scenic of them is Margerie, which we come to about here, and it was doing a lot of calving. The pictures really don't do justice to how massive these things are, and you can feel the wind blowing off of them too. Also we get to see Johns Hopkins glacier too, which is kind of funny coming from Maryland, that dude got around. Some wildlife viewing today too, but nothing compared to our Seward day.
Day 7
We wake up docked in Skagway and go straight for our bus tour which runs parallel to the route taken by prospectors during the Klondike Gold Rush and features more stunning scenery. We stop for lunch at the First Nations town of Carcross, ogle at the nearby sand dunes dubbed the Carcross Desert, and end our run into the Yukon at Emerald Lake. On the way back we stop at a huskies training facility and get to cuddle the husky puppies! They are sooo fuzzy! At Fraser, BC we switch from the bus to the railroad for the rest of the ride back to Skagway and very glad we did. Railroad route is even more scenic, and also somewhat harrowing being a narrow-gauge railroad going through tunnels with no lights, along steep cliffs with railroad debris visible at the bottoms. Like the Alaska RR it has the open air photo platforms at the back of the cars. Back in Skagway we only have a brief time to wander the town and poke our nose in the NPS visitor center before it's time to get back on the ship, would've liked a little more time here.
Day 8
Is Juneau, Alaska. The stop here isn't really a full day, so just time for a couple of things. Our first visit is a gold mine tour which Sam's Mom really wanted to do, nothing all that new for me there as I've seen mines before, but tour was nicely done and they let you pan for gold for a bit. From there we go over to Mendenhall Glacier, which you'd think we'd be glaciered out by now, but no, the excitement here though wasn't the glacier so much, but bears! We got to see one pretty close on a boardwalk hike going over a salmon filled stream, it did not seem particularly bothered by all the people gawking down at it and we got some decent photos. On the same trail also saw a porcupine up in a tree, though his pictures did not come out as well. We don't really stop in the city for anything other than taking some pictures of this cool whale statue and then it's back on the boat as there's a ways to sail till our next stop. For dinner we get unexpected visitors as a pod of whales swims alongside the ship viewable out the dining room windows!
Day 9
Is spent in Ketchikan, land of totem poles, also the best spot for gift shopping. Most of the day is just wandering the town, including the historic "Creek Street" where we stop and pay a visit to Dolly's house, we also take the free city shuttle over to the Totem Heritage Center which has a ton of preserved totem poles and we manage to catch the tail end of a tour and get to hear one story associated with one of the poles. Some bonus excitement - the Ketchikan creek is absolutely full of salmon, I mean I think there are more salmon than water. Just outside the heritage center we watch a fisherman try to get one, he manages to hook a giant fish, but can't quite bring it home and it escapes after a mighty battle. Also bonus wildlife viewing along creek street besides the zillion salmon are some harbor seals enjoying the plenty.
Day 10
Leaving Ketchikan means leaving the protected waters of the Inside Passage and we get our one open sea day. Sadly our calm weather also gives out, really we had an amazing weather so far so can't complain, but today we have rough seas. Thankfully my seasickness patches do their job, while very uncomfortable I don't really feel sick. Still I mostly hide out in the cabin until we get safely behind Vancouver Island later in the day. Some nice scenery while going through the narrow passage between Vancouver Island and the mainland, but I am mostly cruised out by this point.
Day 11
Time to say farewell, disembarking goes fairly smoothly, though the baggage service we were planning on using for the day doesn't exist. We are able to find a hotel to hold them for us as we don't fly out until the evening. Spend most of the day in Vancouver's Granville Island market and I get some poutine, because hey, I'm in Canada! Then a little detour through Gastown just to see the steam clock before retrieving our luggage and heading to the airport. Flight home is more exciting than necessary, flights are delayed, almost miss our San Francisco connection, much turbulence and little sleep, but we do finally make it home the following morning and get to collapse in my own bed and cuddle the kitties.
All in all an excellent adventure. Cruising isn't exactly my preferred way to travel, I mean I don't like boats, and I like being able to travel at my own pace and set my own schedule. But I also always said Alaska would be an exception, because there is much of it that is very difficult to see any other way, and I think it was definitely justified. The scenery was just jaw dropping every day, and I loved getting to see the wildlife that we did. Would highly recommend :-)
And my photos can be found at https://photos.app.goo.gl/B5rw96sKR9Rp89L6A (and many more taken by Maria who got way better photos are also posted to my FB page)
I'm sure I've already forgotten things, but here we go.
Day 0
Sam and I have packed all the things and take off from Dulles to begin our adventures. Last minute flight change has stopping in Charlotte rather than Dallas, and then on to Seattle and continuing on to Anchorage. Other than having to fly through some storms over the Rockies the flights go smoothly, though I don't get much in the way of sleep.
Day 1
We arrive around 4 am, which apparently is normal for Anchorage because the airport is busy and the Starbucks is open, which is good because we need breakfast and have about an hour to kill. Once fortified we go straight to the train station and join up with our traveling companions and soon it is time to board the Alaska Railroad on our way to Seward. We are immediately greeted by stunning scenery, every bit as amazing as advertised. One of the striking things about Alaska that we encountered repeatedly is how much it messes with your sense of scale. I mean it's a running joke that everything is bigger in Alaska, but it's true, that whatever it is that looks about a mile away? Is more like 10, at least. Anyway, we sprang for the goldstar service which was totally worth it, means we get a much needed and very tasty 2nd breakfast on the train. Also puts you in an observation car that's all windows, plus open air photo platforms at the ends of the car, plus free drinks! I tried to stay awake for the whole trip but nodded off for a bit of it towards the end.
It's still morning when we get to Seward and we have awhile before we can check in to our rental, we had arranged for a bag service to hold our stuff and wandered the town for a bit, spending some of the afternoon at the Alaska Sealife Center where we get some guaranteed critter viewing including puffins, otters, seals, sea lions, and many fishies. Highlight for me was the puffins since you got to be in the same room as them. In with the photos there is some video of the puffins and one otter that was a rescue. Hit up a local pub for linner and finally on to our rental house. As soon as I can get my luggage to my room I crash.
Day 2
No rest for us, up and out early for a day cruise to Kenai Fjords National Park. I had some trepidation about this trip since I get seasick easily and this was a smaller boat going out in unprotected waters, but need not have worried since the ocean was like glass today. The cruise proves to be a wildlife bonanza, setting a very high bar for the rest of the trip. We get one very photogenic otter before even really getting out of the harbor. The ship runs out to the Holgate glacier and back and on the way we see whales, puffins, sea lions, bears, and orcas. Ship was able to parallel the orcas for awhile giving some great views. The glacier itself was spectacular as well, complete with some calving action.
Day 3
Finally get a bit of a rest day. We do stop in the little museum next door which has some stuff on the 1964 earthquake. We walk back to the harbor area for some shopping and food. Sam and her Mom score unexpected spots on a dog sledding tour, I volunteer to take her Mom's scooter back to the rental and have some down time. In a little creek between the harbor and our rental get my first view of wild salmon doing their thing, which is pretty cool to watch.
Day 4
Embarkation day, but our ship leaves from Whittier, not Seward, so we have a long bus ride first. We work in a stop at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center on the way for more guaranteed critter viewing. Cool especially to see critters from the interior of Alaska that won't be likely on the cruise, including moose, caribou, bison, and musk ox. Also more bears! After critters and a long, single lane tunnel we finally reach Whittier and our ship, the Coral Princess. Embarkation goes smoothly and most of the rest of the day is just wandering the ship figuring out where things are. This evening is also sailing one of the big stretches of unprotected waters, but the beautiful weather and calm seas hold.
Overall I was pretty happy with the ship. Compared to other ships it seemed to have lots of public areas, including lots of open deck space for viewing so it almost never felt crowded, I think the only time we ran into lines was sometimes at dinner time when we were doing the scheduled dining. Food was consistently decent. We didn't always take advantage of it, but what we saw of it, the entertainment was better than expected.
Day 5
The first of two glacier viewing days, much of which I spend out on the deck gawking. Today's is Hubbard Glacier, which is huge, and we get quite a bit closer than I thought we would, our closest approach probably around here. I learned afterward that this particular ships captain has a reputation for getting as close to the glaciers as possible.
Day 6
Is more glacier gawking, now in Glacier Bay National Park. The day starts out very foggy, but it clears up by the time we get to the glaciers. The ship takes on a handful of park rangers for the day who give lectures and provide some narration to what we're viewing. There are many glaciers to be seen, the most scenic of them is Margerie, which we come to about here, and it was doing a lot of calving. The pictures really don't do justice to how massive these things are, and you can feel the wind blowing off of them too. Also we get to see Johns Hopkins glacier too, which is kind of funny coming from Maryland, that dude got around. Some wildlife viewing today too, but nothing compared to our Seward day.
Day 7
We wake up docked in Skagway and go straight for our bus tour which runs parallel to the route taken by prospectors during the Klondike Gold Rush and features more stunning scenery. We stop for lunch at the First Nations town of Carcross, ogle at the nearby sand dunes dubbed the Carcross Desert, and end our run into the Yukon at Emerald Lake. On the way back we stop at a huskies training facility and get to cuddle the husky puppies! They are sooo fuzzy! At Fraser, BC we switch from the bus to the railroad for the rest of the ride back to Skagway and very glad we did. Railroad route is even more scenic, and also somewhat harrowing being a narrow-gauge railroad going through tunnels with no lights, along steep cliffs with railroad debris visible at the bottoms. Like the Alaska RR it has the open air photo platforms at the back of the cars. Back in Skagway we only have a brief time to wander the town and poke our nose in the NPS visitor center before it's time to get back on the ship, would've liked a little more time here.
Day 8
Is Juneau, Alaska. The stop here isn't really a full day, so just time for a couple of things. Our first visit is a gold mine tour which Sam's Mom really wanted to do, nothing all that new for me there as I've seen mines before, but tour was nicely done and they let you pan for gold for a bit. From there we go over to Mendenhall Glacier, which you'd think we'd be glaciered out by now, but no, the excitement here though wasn't the glacier so much, but bears! We got to see one pretty close on a boardwalk hike going over a salmon filled stream, it did not seem particularly bothered by all the people gawking down at it and we got some decent photos. On the same trail also saw a porcupine up in a tree, though his pictures did not come out as well. We don't really stop in the city for anything other than taking some pictures of this cool whale statue and then it's back on the boat as there's a ways to sail till our next stop. For dinner we get unexpected visitors as a pod of whales swims alongside the ship viewable out the dining room windows!
Day 9
Is spent in Ketchikan, land of totem poles, also the best spot for gift shopping. Most of the day is just wandering the town, including the historic "Creek Street" where we stop and pay a visit to Dolly's house, we also take the free city shuttle over to the Totem Heritage Center which has a ton of preserved totem poles and we manage to catch the tail end of a tour and get to hear one story associated with one of the poles. Some bonus excitement - the Ketchikan creek is absolutely full of salmon, I mean I think there are more salmon than water. Just outside the heritage center we watch a fisherman try to get one, he manages to hook a giant fish, but can't quite bring it home and it escapes after a mighty battle. Also bonus wildlife viewing along creek street besides the zillion salmon are some harbor seals enjoying the plenty.
Day 10
Leaving Ketchikan means leaving the protected waters of the Inside Passage and we get our one open sea day. Sadly our calm weather also gives out, really we had an amazing weather so far so can't complain, but today we have rough seas. Thankfully my seasickness patches do their job, while very uncomfortable I don't really feel sick. Still I mostly hide out in the cabin until we get safely behind Vancouver Island later in the day. Some nice scenery while going through the narrow passage between Vancouver Island and the mainland, but I am mostly cruised out by this point.
Day 11
Time to say farewell, disembarking goes fairly smoothly, though the baggage service we were planning on using for the day doesn't exist. We are able to find a hotel to hold them for us as we don't fly out until the evening. Spend most of the day in Vancouver's Granville Island market and I get some poutine, because hey, I'm in Canada! Then a little detour through Gastown just to see the steam clock before retrieving our luggage and heading to the airport. Flight home is more exciting than necessary, flights are delayed, almost miss our San Francisco connection, much turbulence and little sleep, but we do finally make it home the following morning and get to collapse in my own bed and cuddle the kitties.
All in all an excellent adventure. Cruising isn't exactly my preferred way to travel, I mean I don't like boats, and I like being able to travel at my own pace and set my own schedule. But I also always said Alaska would be an exception, because there is much of it that is very difficult to see any other way, and I think it was definitely justified. The scenery was just jaw dropping every day, and I loved getting to see the wildlife that we did. Would highly recommend :-)
